Kyoto

Ace's first Japanese hotel, in a Kengo Kuma-expanded 1920s mall, with Commune Design interiors weaving Western and Japanese sensibilities. A lively, design-led base downtown.

A modern reinterpretation of the ryokan, hidden in forested Arashiyama and reached by boat along the Oi River. Mountain views, cedar bathtubs and serene riverside suites.

A refreshing retreat in the leafy northeast, with riverside rooms, private steam-bath saunas and a tranquil garden. Local-herb breakfasts and dinners in a serene dining room.

Kyoto's oldest Western-style cake shop, run by the same family since 1907. Come for the jam-topped Russian cakes and orange-jelly kozubukuro.

The main store of a yatsuhashi maker selling Kyoto's koto-shaped rice sweets near Shogoin temple since the 17th century. The soft, cinnamon version is the classic souvenir.

A 200-year-old shop serving Kyoto's landlocked saba-zushi — pressed vinegared mackerel — alongside other local styles. Eat in or take some for a Kamo-side picnic.

Fragrance brand Apothecary Fragrance in a restored 120-year-old machiya, with perfumes, candles and incense amid exposed brick and beams. Don't miss the Kyoto-exclusive furoshiki.

Sonya Park's Arts & Science, a two-floor shop of considered womenswear, jewellery and imported goods around a small garden. Calm, refined and characterful.

The outdoor brand's first Kyoto shop, by New Material Research Laboratory, linking garden and interior with natural materials. Home to the main and experimental Goldwin 0 lines.

A canvas-bag maker since 1905, hand-cutting and sewing durable totes, backpacks and aprons that age beautifully. A Kyoto craft institution.

A beloved Ichijoji bookshop of 25,000-plus titles on art, fashion and travel, with lifestyle goods and a gallery. A pilgrimage for book lovers.

A celebrated stationery, incense and calligraphy shop on Teramachi since 1663, in a Hiroshi Naito-designed space. Over a thousand beautiful, artisan-made wares.

Akira Minagawa's distinctive textile label in the preserved 1927 Kotobuki Building, with garments, homeware and chair covers. Quietly joyful design.

A Tadao Ando-designed open-air gallery, mostly sunk below ground, where eight famous paintings — including Monet's Water Lilies — are reproduced on porcelain. A quietly clever concept.

A landmark 1933 Imperial Crown-style museum, renovated in 2020, with 4,000-plus works of Kyoto modern art and ambitious shows. A cornerstone of the city's art scene.

A Zen sub-temple of Kenninji dedicated to seated meditation, with zazen sessions open to all, including non-Japanese speakers. A rare hands-on encounter with Zen.