Lisbon

Vaulted brick dining room specialising in salt cod prepared a dozen ways — Portugal's national obsession done thoroughly and well.

Casual tasca from chef João Rodrigues, who left fine dining to cook unfussy, produce-driven Portuguese food — grilled fish, good cuts of meat — over fire. Open kitchen, easygoing room.

Chiado tasca reworking Portuguese classics as small plates, with a strong wine list and a bare-bones, modern look. Bold flavours at fair prices.

Kiko Martins's Príncipe Real spot with a giant octopus sculpture overhead, serving Peruvian-inflected ceviches and seafood. No bookings, so expect to wait with a pisco sour.

Long-running Minho-style house near Avenida, hung with cured hams and known for excellent shellfish and generous, traditional Portuguese cooking. An old-school institution.

Lisbon's most famous beer-and-seafood hall: garlicky prawns, percebes, clams, and a prego steak sandwich to finish. Brisk, brightly lit, and always heaving.

Chef Vítor Sobral's modern take on the Portuguese tasca, serving refined small plates rooted in traditional recipes. Polished but unpretentious.

Tiny Belém tavern channelling the food of the Alentejo — sharing plates of cured meats, slow-cooked pork, and regional wines in a snug, convivial room.

Príncipe Real spot devoted to pork from nose to tail, treating Portugal's pig culture with creativity and respect. Snout, secreto, and offal handled with skill.

André Magalhães's beloved, no-reservations Chiado taberna serving inventive petiscos chalked on a board. Cramped, characterful, and a perennial favourite.

Chef Marlene Vieira's riverside gastrobar near the cruise terminal, turning Portuguese staples into refined small plates with a contemporary edge.

Light-filled Baixa restaurant built around small Portuguese producers, seasonal vegetables, and a natural-wine list. Dishes change with what arrives that week.

Intimate, vegetable-forward restaurant with a serious list of organic and natural wines; cooking that treats produce as the centrepiece rather than the side.

Small, creative Alfama restaurant where the chef runs a tight, frequently-changing menu of inventive, fermentation-leaning Portuguese plates.

Neighbourhood taberna serving honest, well-judged Portuguese plates and good wine in a relaxed, low-key setting.